A fascinating country, rich of history and architectural treasures.. Invaders such as Alexander the Great, Genghis Khan and Tamerlane passed here, but also explorers such as Marco Polo!
Colorful bazaars, ancient cities along the Silk Road with their iconic mosques, madrasas, mausoleums, finely adorned with an explosion of turquoise and blue domes and tiles are awaiting us in this journey!
Check out our Itinerary in Uzbekistan and the many useful practical information and let yourself be inspired to create your own trip!
Our itinerary in Uzbekistan:
Day 0 – Flight Italy-Uzbekistan (Turkish Airlines via Istanbul)
TURKISH AIRLINES
Bologna 2.40pm - Istanbul 7.20pm
Istanbul 9.30pm - Tashkent 04.00am (the next day)
Day 1 – Afrosiyob fast train Tashkent 7.24 am / Samarkand 9.37 am – visit SAMARKAND:Registan; Bibi – Khanym Mosque; Gur -e-Amir Mausoleum;
Night in Samarkand (Diplomat Premium Hotel)
Day 2 – visit SAMARKAND: Hazrat – Hizr Mosque; Shah -i-Zinda Mausoleums; Afrosiab Museum, Siob Baazar; Registan sunset and by night +music and lights show
Night in Samarkand (Diplomat Premium Hotel)
Day 3 – Afrosyob fast train Samarkand 10.46am / Bukhara 12.29pm – visit BUKHARA: Lyabi- Hauz Square with Madressa & Khanaka Nadir Divanbegi and Medressa Kukeldash; Maghok -i- Attar Mosque; Ulugbek Medressa & Abdul Aziz Khan Madressa; Ark Fortress (late pm light)
Night in Bukhara (Marhaba Boutique hotel)
Day 4 - visit BUKHARA: Char Minar; Kalon Mosque & Minaret; Bolo-Hauz Mosque; Ismail Samani Mausoleum; Sitai Moho Hosa Palace; Covered Baazars; Mir-i-Arab Medressa (late pm light); Kalon Mosque & Minaret and Mir-i-Arab Medressa by night
Night in Bukhara (Marhaba Boutique hotel)
Day 5 - TRAIN Bukhara 7.56 am- 13.35 am Urgench –visit KHIVA: Juma Mosque & Minaret; Pahlavan Mahmud Mausoleum; Muhammad Rakhim Khan Madrasah; Kalta Minor Minaret (sunset light)
Night in Khiva (New Star Boutique hotel)
Day 6- visit KHIVA: Islom Hoja Medressa & Minaret (morning light); Tosh-Hovli Palace; Allakuli Khan Madrasah and Caravan Saray; north-western walls (north gate access); Khuna Ark Fortress (sunset light)
Night in Khiva (New Star Boutique hotel)
Day 7 – Urgench/Tashkent flight with Uzbekistan Airways 15.20 - 16.40 - visit TASHKENT (Bazar Chorsu)
Night in Tashkent (Hotel Marwa Pool & Spa)
Day 8 – Flight Uzbekistan – Italy (Turkish Airlines via Istanbul)
TURKISH AIRLINES
Tashkent – Istanbul: 09.20 - 12.35
Istanbul -Bologna: 4.45pm - 6.25pm
Place by place
SAMARKAND
Let’s start from Samarkand, a crossroads for merchants from the far East!
Samarkand Highlights
1) The Registan, the heart of the old city, with the 3 iconic Madrasas and the Mosque decorated with a profusion of blue and turquoises tiles
2) Mausoleum of Gur – e – Amir, where Tamerlane rests together with his sons and Ulugbeck
3) Bibi-Khanym Mosque, the largest in Central Asia and dedicated to Tamerlane's wife
4) Hazrat – Hizr Mosque, the most beautiful in Samarkand. From the minaret you have a wonderful view
5) Zhah -i- Zinda, the spectacular avenue of Mausoleums
6) Afrosiab museum and Ulugbeck Observatory
7) Siob Bazaar
Consider a couple of day for the visit and don’t miss a visit also at the sunset and in the evening to see Registan illuminated
To access to the several attractions there is ticket (approx. 4-5 euro per each site) and also for Registan.
Registan
Registan Square was the heart of the old city!
In this stunning square there are 3 majestic madrasas decorated with a profusion of turquoise and blue tiles, which are among the oldest surviving madrasas in the world:
-Madressa of Ulugbeck: the oldest. The stars seen on the portal reflect his passion for astronomy
-Madressa Sher Dor (Of the Lion) on which two lions or tigers are depicted hunting a deer, contrary to Islamic dictates which prohibit the representation of living animals
-Madressa Tilla Kari (Gold coated) in whose courtyard there is a Mosque adorned inside with elaborate blue and gold decorations
To access to Registan it is necessary a ticket (65,000 sum/5 euros)! The ticket is valid for only one access to Registan, so to enter again even in the same day, you need a new ticket!
In any case, to see Registan illuminated (which is wonderful) or to attend the evocative light and music show that is sometimes held in the evening, you can stay outside the barriers where the view is splendid as well
Sometimes in fact, some groups pay for a light and music show which everyone can watch, standing outside the barriers of the Registan... we were lucky on the second evening in Samarcada and this show was incredible!
There is any type of announcements of the show and no alert at the ticket office, so the only way is to go Registan when it’s dark (often around dinner time or immediately after dinner)... and keep your fingers crossed!
Zhah -i- Zinda
This splendid avenue of mausoleums, decorated with some of the most spectacular tiles in the Muslim world, is one of the most spectacular places in Samarkand!
Nearby, don't miss the Hazrat-Hizr Mosque, the most beautiful mosque in Samarkand and from which you have a wonderful view of the Bibi-Khanym Mosque
Tamerlane’s Mausoleum (cd Gur – e – Amir)
Tamerlane was the Emir of Samarkand and together with his nephew Ulugbeck, in 1400 they transform Samarkand in the cultural and economic capital of Central Asia
In this Mausoleum rests Tamerlane together with his sons and Ulugbek. Actually, Tamerlane was not supposed to be buried here, but in the crypt of Shahrisabz... however when Tamerlane suddenly died in the winter of 1405, the roads to reach the crypt intended for him were closed due to snow.
The portal, the blue dome and the tile decorations of this mausoleum are beautiful, but not the most sumptuous ones…..because Tamerlane didn't think he was buried there!
Bibi- Khanym Mosque
This mosque is the largest in Central Asia
Do you know the legend?
Bibi-Khanym was Tamerlane's wife and she built this mosque as a surprise for Tamerlane. But the architect fell in love with her and refused to finish the work unless he received a kiss. When Tamerlane discovered the fact, he had the architect executed and forced the women to wear the veil, so as not to be a temptation for the other men.
Today Uzbekistan is becoming increasingly secularised, which is why more and more women are choosing not to wear the veil
Practical Info
-To reach Samarkand from Tashkent were our flight landed, the best way (cheapest and fastest) are the modern Afrosiyob fast trains (2h_tickets online on https://railway.uz/en/; 10/15 euros per person). The alternative is a private car transfers (a little more expensive and slower 4/5h: for example, see civitatis and getyourguide or through the hotels) or an internal flight
- our base in Samarkand: Diplomat Hotel. The room are renovated and it is 3 minutes walking from Registan.
BUKHARA
Bukhara is plenty of thousand-year-old buildings and was for a period the capital as well as the cultural and religious heart of Central Asia.
In the perfectly preserved and wonderful old city, you will see several mosques, madrasas, minarets, bazaars and a fortress. Here too, blue is the predominant color of the domes and tiles that decorate the various sites.
Bukhara Highligts
1) Kalon Minaret, the nearby majestic Kalon Mosque (Ideal in the morning light) and Mir-i-Arab Madressa, (ideal in the late afternoon light).
Don’t miss a visit also at sunset and in the evening to see them illuminated.
2) Char Minar, 4 ornamental towers that were the entrance to a medressa
3) Lyabi-Hauz Square built around an ancient water tank and shaded by mulberry trees
Around the square, the awesome Nadir Divanbegi Madressa decorated with two peacocks, against the rules of Islamic art which prohibits the representation of living creatures, the Kukeldash Madressa which was one of the biggest Koranic school in Central Asia and the religious center “Khanaka”of Nadir Divanbegi
4) Maghok-i-Attar Mosque, one of the oldest one in Central Asia
5) Ulubeck Medressa and Abdul Aziz Khan Madressa decorated with spectacular tiles
6) The colorful bazaars: money changers (Taki- Sarrafon), hatters (Taki-Telpak Furushon), jewelers (Taki- Zargaron)
7)Ark, the fortified citadel which was the residence of the emirs. From the boundaries, you can enjoy a wonderful view on Bukhara (ideal in the late afternoon light).
8) Bolo-Hauz Mosque, with its spectacular columns carved in painted wood
9)Ismail Samani Mausoleum;
10) Sitorai Mokhi Khosa, the summer Emir’s Palace
Consider a couple of day for the visit.
To access to some of these attractions there is an entrance ticket (4-6 euro)
Kalon Complex
One of the icons of Bukhara is certainly the splendid Kalon complex composed by a spectacular Minaret, the Kalon Mosque - that can contain over 10,000 people (ideal in the morning light) - and the Mir Madrasa- i-Arab, (ideal in late afternoon light).
Don't miss a visit even in the evening when it is illuminated
Of the three buildings, it is possible to visit the interior only of the Kalon Mosque. Ticket around 4-5 euros. Women must cover their heads.
Sitorai Mokhi Khosa (Palace of Moon-Like Stars)
With a taxi reach the emir's summer palace which is located about 6km from the center of Bukhara (also negotiate the return journey with the taxi driver, so that he will wait for you outside the palace after the visit)
In the palace, there are star decorations everywhere because it was said that the emir's wife was as beautiful as a star and the palace was dedicated to her
Consider approximately 1h/1h30 for the visit. Ticket entrance approx. 5 euro
Practical Info:
- To reach Bukhara from Samarkand (or vice versa), the best way (cheapest and fastest: 2h/10-15 euros per person) are the modern Afrosiyob fast trains. The alternative is private car transfers (a little more expensive and slower 4h: for example, see civitatis and getyourguide)
- Our base in Bukhara: Marhaba Boutique Hotel, housed in a former Madrasa and a 2-minute walk from Lyabi-Hauz Square
KHIVA
Khiva is a splendid, perfectly preserved museum city where time seems to have stopped
The medieval old city (Ichon-Qala) surrounded by mud brick walls is plenty of mosques, minarets, medressas and mausoleums beautifully decorated with blue, turquoise and emerald tiles: particularly evocative at dawn and sunset as well as illuminated in the evening.
Khiva Highlights
1) The unfinished, Kalta Minor Minaret finely adorned with a profusion of turquoise tiles
2) Khuna Ark, the fortress that was the residence of the Khan of Khiva. Climb to the top of the Watch Tower to see a breathtaking view, especially at sunset.
3) Tosh-Hovli Palace, the most sumptuous version of the Khuna Ark. In the Harem where housed 4 wifes and 40 concubines. Inside, a triumph of blue tiles, carved wooden columns and elaborate decorations
4) Pahlavon Mahmud Mausoleum, one of the most beautiful places in the whole city. The courtyard is enchanting and the tile decorations are splendid
5) Juma Mosque with its 218 wooden columns that support the roof and the Juma Minaret from which you can admire a stunning view of the city from above
6) Islom Hoja Medressa and the Minaret decorated with turquoise and red tiles seem a lighthouse. Go up there in the morning when the light is better
Consider a couple of days for the visit!
To access to Ichon-Qala (the medieval old city inside the walls) and visit the interiors of part of the attractions you need an entrance ticket that can be purchased at the ticket office at the West Gate, valid for 2 consecutive days (after 7pm you don't need a ticket to simply walk in the streets of Ichon -Qala; there is an extra ticket for Pahlavon Mahmud Mausoleum e for the Islom Hoja Minaret)
The best places to see the sunset in Khiva
- Tower in the Kuhna Ark fortress
-Terrasse Cafe
-Islam Hoja Minaret
Practical Info:
- To reach Khiva from Bukhara (or vice versa), the alternatives are the train (cheap (10/15 euros per person), but it takes 6/7 hours since there is no fast train) or a transfer by private car (more expensive and equally slow: 7/8h: for example, see civitatis and getyourguide websites)
- Our base in Khiva: New Star Boutique Hotel. Ex-Madrasa, very nice, just outside the walls (Ichon-Qala). The only flaw: they tried in every way not to accept payment by card and they tried to give us the room not in the madrasa, but in front of the reception (even though we had expressly booked in the madrasa)
TASHKENT
The capital of Uzbekistan mixes modern and ancient and is usually a quick stopover at the beginning or end of the trip.
So if you have one or half a day, we suggest you concentrate on the ancient part:
1. Khast Imom complex: Hazroti Imom Mosque + Barak Khan Medressa +Moyie Mubarek Museum (where the oldest Quran in the world is kept)
2. Bazar Chorsu and the nearby Juma Mosque and Kulkedash Medressa
3. Historical underground stop of Kosmonavtlar
If you have more time:
-Sheikhantaur Mausoleum
- Navoi Park
- Romanov Palace
Honest opinion: we didn’t like Tashkent in terms of style and this is the only place where we didn’t feel safe walking around in the evening
Others Practical info
Entry Requirements for Uzbekistan
All the information below was valid as of April 2024, therefore please check the official websites for any updates or changes.
For Italian citizens, no visa is required for stays of less than 30 days, but a passport with at least 6 months of residual validity is sufficient
The first hotel you stay in will give you a registration form in the country to be kept, as the authorities may ask for it when leaving the country
When to Go
The best periods to go to Uzbekistan are the middle seasons: so April - May- June and September - October
July and August are very hot and December- February are very cold
Flights options
International flights arrive mainly at the airport of the capital: Tashkent.
We flew with Turkish Airlines via Istanbul from Bologna which offers fairly convenient flight combinations (there are also departures from other Italian cities). With Turkish Airlines - if you have time - it is also possible to make a stopover in Istanbul and the airline gives you a night in a hotel for free!
As a quicker alternative (but much more expensive) Uzbekistan Airways operates a direct flight from Milan (about 7 hours) a few days a week
As usual, the advice is to book in advance the international flight to find the best rates, as the intercontinental flight is the highest cost of the trip. Flying round trip to Tashkent costs much less than flying to Tashkent and back from Urgench (or vice versa), although in this way you optimize your time better.
Internal transports
The most convenient and also fastest way to get between the various cities is by train. The alternative is transfers with private cars with drivers, but they are slower and also more expensive (for example see Civitatis and Getyourguide or by arranging them with the hotel in the city of departure)
For the longer journey Tashkent- Urgench (or vice versa), the best option is an internal flight with Uzbekistan Airways (about 1h20). There are at least a couple of flights every day and the fares are convenient (we paid about 30 euros per person)
Fast trains
On the Tashkent - Samarkand- Bukhara route (or vice versa) there are modern fast trains Afrosyob that can be booked online (with credit card; no Postepay) on the website https://railway.uz/en/ starting from 30-45 days in advance
Consider about 2 hours for each journey and a cost between 10-15 euros per person. The trains are new, clean and comfortable, so both business and economy class are fine
Slow train
To reach Khiva from Bukhara (or vice versa) by train it takes 6 hours (cost 10-15 euros per person) since there is no fast train. The alternative is a transfer with a driver by booking it with the hotel in the city of departure or on civitatis or getyourguide (more expensive -about 80/100usd- and equally slow 7/8 hours)
Slow trains are few and mainly at night. Only on Wednesdays and Sundays, there is a daytime train from Bukhara to Urgench (which is about 30/40 minutes from Khiva) that leaves at 8 in the morning and arrives at 13:30.
Then from Urgench you can reach Khiva, with a taxi or with a transfer booked from the hotel or on civitatis (cost about 15usd)
Attention: booking this slow train (https://railway.uz/en/ ) is not easy as tickets are available online only a few days before and sell out quickly. At the ticket office in the stations they do not sell it to foreigners saying that the train is not available or full. So we recommend that you also book a car transfer to be safe, to be cancelled under the date if you manage to book the train
On the slow train there are two classes: sleeper (single carriage with many couchettes) and Coupe (carriage with compartment with maximum 4 couchettes). If you can, buy the Coupe and the bottom seats, which are a bit more comfortable!
We were helped in booking this train by a very kind local guide (who also speaks Italian) who also organizes private tours, in case you are interested, we leave you the contacts below:
00998 770309981
Where to Sleep
Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva can be visited on foot as all the attractions are walking distance, so we recommend choosing a hotel in a central location to move freely on foot both during the day and in the evening.
On average, to sleep in very nice boutique hotels in a central location, we spent about 60/70 euros per night for 2 (with breakfast and free cancellation up to a few days before), booking them on Booking
Here are our choices (no adv, but all recommended for value for money):
-Samarkand: Diplomat Hotel, the rooms are new and it is located 3 minutes walk from the Registan!
-Bukhara: Marhaba Boutique Hotel, housed in a former Madrasa and 2 minutes walk from Lyabi-Hauz square
-Khiva: New Star Boutique Hotel. Ex-Madrasa, very nice, just outside the walls (Ichon-Qala). The only flaw: they tried in every way not to accept payment by card and they tried to give us the room not in the madrasa, but in front of the reception (even though we had expressly booked in the madrasa)
-Tashkent: Hotel Marwa Pool & Spa. Modern and a stone's throw from the Chorsu Bazaar. For dinner in the evening there is not much in the area though.
Where to Eat
Uzbek cuisine is similar of Middle Eastern cuisine and therefore the use of rice, spices, grilled meat, vegetables and dried fruit is prevalent.
The typical dishes of Uzbek cuisine to try are Plov (rice with vegetables and/or meat), Manti (large and steamed ravioli filled with pumpkin or more often with meat, onion and spices), Samsa (fried puff pastry parcels filled with meat or vegetables), Gumma (fried pasta filled with cheese); Shashlyk (grilled meat or vegetable skewers).
If you don't like spices like us, try asking for the version “no spicy” and sometimes you'll be lucky.
The choice of restaurants in Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva is not great. These are mostly very touristy places of medium-low quality and which offer more or less all the same dishes, so the more characteristic places, on the terraces with a view and where you eat better, especially for dinner, should be booked 1-2 days in advance
As for costs, for meals, on average for two people: lunch costs 5-10 euros and dinner costs about 15-20 euros
Here are our choices:
Samarcanda Restaurants
Dinner
-Emirhan Restaurant, with a terrace overlooking the Registan
-Cafe Labig’or
Lunch
-Kyzyl Chaixona
-Street food at Syob Bazaar
-Zargaron Restaurant: the place has a wonderful view of the Bibi-Khanym mosque, but since it is frequented by groups we strongly advise against it because in the end they only serve them! In fact, one day at lunch after 1h30 of waiting they didn't bring us anything to eat, when they had been saying for 40 minutes that the dishes were about to arrive! And the same thing happened to a family in front of us.
Bukhara Restaurants
Lunch
-Old Bukhara Restaurant
-Bolo Hauz Chaikhana
Afternoon break:Silk Road Spices tea room
Dinner
-Chinar Chaikhana
-Minzifa Restaurant
Khiva Restaurants
Dinner
-Terrasse Cafe (with terrace overlooking the Kalta Minor Minaret and Arch)
-Tapas Restaurant (with terrace overlooking the Kalta Minor Minaret)
Afternoon break: Mirzo Bashi Tearoom
Lunch
Khorezm Art Restaurant
Safety & Cleanliness
We always felt safe when walking around. In the historic centers of Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva there are many tourists and the Tourist Police is constantly around to ensure order.
As for hygiene, the cities and hotels are very clean and the historical part of the cities is also very well-kept. As usual, avoid drinking tap water and we also generally avoid raw foods and creams.
The capital, Tashkent, is a different story: this is the only place where we didn't feel safe walking around in the evening
Internet
When traveling independently, we recommend that you have Internet available on your cell phone.
We opted for an e-sim with unlimited data: Holafly (for 14g cost around 35 euros) - no adv
The alternative is a local sim with a voice and data package. We saw that they sold them right away upon arrival at Tashkent airport.
Costs
At the moment, Uzbekistan is a low-cost destination for hotels, entrance fees, internal transports and meals.
Bring enough cash (euros and/or dollars) as many hotels and restaurants do not accept credit cards. Also, change something in local currency (Sum) right away at the airport for taxis, souvenirs, meals etc.
The biggest cost of the trip is the intercontinental flight. To give you an idea, we booked the flight with Turkish Airlines at the end of January for the Easter week and spent about 650 euros per person
On average, to sleep in very nice boutique hotels in a central location, we spent about 60/70 euros per night for 2, booking them on Booking
For trains, consider about 10-15 euros per person per trip and about 30 euros for the internal flight. Taxis cost a few euros for short trips, but always negotiate the price before leaving!
To visit the main attractions you usually pay an entrance ticket that ranges from 4 to 6 euros. For the camera you sometimes pay a separate cost of about 1/2 euro
For meals, on average for two people: lunch for 5-10 euros and dinner for about 15-20 euros
Don't forget health and cancellation insurance, to be safe against any unforeseen events! We usually rely on AXA or Europe Assistance (no adv)
To discover more about our travel in Uzbekistan have a look to our posts and stories dedicated to this country on our Instagram page @2intour dated May 2024 – July 2024
Did you enjoy our article? Read the other articles and for more photos and videos follow our IG page @2intour
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