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Bolivia and Northern Chile: 3 weeks itinerary bewteen August andSeptember

 ..a trip through surreal landscapes, blue and starry skies, deserts, lagoons, geysers, volcanoes, salt flats, the Andes, colonial villages...

 

We will take few internal flights on the longest routes, but mainly we will travel by land to slowly enjoy the trip, as we like

 

Those who have followed us on Instagram know that it was a trip full of adventures but also of some misadventures, but still full of emotions and wonderful!

 

Check out our Itinerary between Northern  Chile and Bolivia and the many useful practical information and let yourself be inspired to create your own trip!


Torres del Paine - Chile
Laguna Colorada - Bolivia
 

Our itinerary in Chile and Bolivia day by day:


DAY 1 – international flight: Milan - Santiago del Cile (via Paris)

 

AIR FRANCE

Milan MXP  18.55 - Paris CGD 20.25

Paris CGD  23.30- Santiago Del Cile 07.45

 

DAY 2  -Arrival in Santiago del Cile 7.45 am – visit Santiago del Cile  (Plaza de Armas) – wine tasting tour to Concha-Toro Winery (half day tour with Civitatis/MTO tour)  

 

Night in Santiago del Cile (Hotel Panamericano)

 

 day skipped due to the cancellation of our flight from Paris and thus arrive in Santiago del Chile after midnight and night at the airport to catch the early morning flight for Calama

 

DAY 3- flight (LATAM) Santiago del Chile 6.05 to Calama  8.10 – 80km arrival in San Pedro de Atacama –Cordillera del Sal & Sunset (half day tour with Civitatis/Atacama Extrema)

 

Night in San Pedro de Atacama (Nueva Lodge Estacion)

 

DAY 4---San Pedro de Atacama: Piedras Rojas, altiplanic lagoons, Laguna Chaxa and Salar de Atacama (day tour with Alabalti Atacama)

 

Night in  San Pedro de Atacama (Nueva Lodge Estacion)

 

DAY 5- San Pedro de Atacama: sunrise at "Geisers del Tatio” (tour with Pukarumi Travel) + astronomical tour to see the Milky Way (tour with Hoyri Atacama )

 

Night in  San Pedro de Atacama (Nueva Lodge Estacion)

 

DAY 6— from San Pedro de Atacama crossing the Chile/Bolivia land border in Hito Cajon -  day1 of the private tour in 4WD in Reserva Eduardo Avaroa & Salar de Uyuni (Cordillera Traveller): Reserva REA: Green Lagoon and White Lagoon, Desierto de Dali , Termas de Polques, Sol de Manana Geyser and fumaroles; Laguna Colorada, Desierto de Siloli & Arbol de Piedra)

 

Night in Tayka Desert Hotel in Siloli Desert

 

DAY 7- day2 of the private tour in 4WD in Reserva  Eduardo Avaroa & Salar de Uyuni (Cordillera Traveller): Reserva REA: highland Lagoons with flamingos(Honda lagoon, Laguna Hedionda, Cañapa lagoon ) - Turquiri lagoon (black lagoon) - Vulcano Ollague viewpoint - San Cristobal - train Cemetery  in Uyuni - sunset in Salar de Uyuni 

 

Night in PALACIO DE SAL salt hotel in Salar de Uyuni

 

DAY 8- day3 of the tour in 4WD in Reserva  Eduardo Avaroa & Salar de Uyuni  (Cordillera Traveller): Colchani, Salar de Uyuni salt flats

(monument to the Dakar rally and the square of the flags of the world, first salt hotel, Inca Huasi island)  

 

 Night in Uyuni (Tonito Hotel)

 

DAY 9 – BUS Uyuni /Potosi  (bus “Expreso 11 Julio” - h8-12)– visit Potosi historical center (Casa Nacional de la Moneda, Torre de la Compania de Jesus, Convento de Santa Teresa, Plaza 10 de Noviembre and the  Cathedral, Yglesia de San Lorenzo, Arcos de Cobija)

 

Night in Potosi (Virreyes Hotel)

 

 DAY 10-  BUS Potosí/ Sucre (BUS TRANS EMPERADOR _h 10 - h 13)- visit SUCRE  called the White City (Plaza de 25 Mayo and The Cathedral, Convento de San Felipe Neri rooftop, happy hour at Cafe Mirador San Miguel) - gourmet dinner at El Solar

Night in Sucre (Capital Plaza Hotel)

 

 

 DAY 11- –visit Sucre ( Dome of the Prefectura de Chuquisaca, Casa de la Libertad,  Museo Nacional de Etnografia y Folklore- lunch at La Posada Restaurant- Barrio La Recoleta )  -- fligth BOA (Boliviana de Aviacion) SUCRE h 21.05 La Paz  h 22.05

 

Actually we should have gone to Tarabuco Sunday Market but it was the National Day of Pedestrians and car’s circulation was not allowed until 5.30 pm

 

 Night in La Paz (Las Brisas Hotel)

 

DAY 12 - Moon Valley – La Paz: Cableway to El Alto and La Paz colonial center (Calle Jaen,  Plaza Murillo, Catedral Metropolitana and the Presidential Palace, Iglesia San Francisco, Artesania Alley and Las Brujas Market,) (tour GYG/WONDER TOURS LA PAZ)

 

Night in La Paz (Las Brisas Hotel)

 

DAY 13 -- Cordillera Real de los Andes: Trekking to  Charquini Mountain and Emerald Lagoon (tour GYG/Buhos Tours)

 

Night in La Paz (Las Brisas Hotel)

 

day skipped due to Francesca Salmonellosi

 

DAY 14 —Titicaca Lake, Copacabana,  Isla del Sol – tour  day 1 (civitatis/Perla de Bolivia)

 

Night on Isla del Sol in Titicaca Lake  (Campo Santo de la Isla del Sol Hotel)

 

day skipped due to Francesca Salmonellosi and thus night in La Paz (Las Brisas Hotel)

 

DAY 15 ---- Titicaca Lake, Copacabana,  Isla del Sol – tour  day 2 (civitatis/Perla de Bolivia)

 

 Night in La Paz (La Brisas Hotel)

 

day skipped due to Francesca Salmonellosi

 

 DAY 16 --- Tiwanaku archeological site (Inca Land Tours)

 

Night in La Paz (Las Brisas Hotel)

 

 DAY 17 – flight (LATAM) La Paz 9.15 – Santiago del Cile 14.16 (via Santa Cruz)  - visit Santiago del Chile city center

 

Night in Santiago del Cile (Hotel Panamericano)

 

 DAY 18 –Valparaiso and Vina del Mar (tour GYG/MTO Tour)

 

As an alternative: Cajon del Maipo

 

Night in Santiago del Cile (Hotel Panamericano)

 

DAY 19 - flight Santiago del Cile/ Milano MXP  (via Paris )


AIR FRANCE

Santiago del Cile 12.55 - ParisCGD  07.40

Paris CGD 10.15 – Milan MXP   11.40


Alternative Travel idea: Bolivia is a country that is quite complicated, where unexpected events that can affect travel plan are frequent and therefore must be taken into account: for those who do not feel comfortable with this trip, an alternative that we would recommend is the following:


After visiting the Eduardo Avaroa Reserve and the Salar de Uyuni, return in Chile to San Pedro de Atacama and then from there visit more in depth Northern Chile or consider visiting Northern Argentina, such as the Salta area.

 

 

Place by place itinerary


CHILE


SAN PEDRO DE ATACAMA

San Pedro de Atacama is the perfect base to explore Atacama Desert and the nearby area

 

Practical info

-  To reach San Pedro de  Atacama, the nearest airport is Calama (approx. 80 km far); from Calama to San Pedro de  Atacama you can take a shared shuttle at costs approx. 15 euro per person (es. https://www.transferpampa.cl/ )

Below the umissable places and experience in this area if you have at least 3 days:


Cordillera del Sal – Vallecito

After a very long journey - that became infinite due to the cancellation of our flight from Paris to Santiago  - we finally arrive in San Pedro de Atacama and we start to explore the Norte Grande, where we can observe one of the most spectacular landscape in Northern Chile... Andes, Vulcanoes, deserts,  surreal rock formations, lagoons, geysers...

Atacama desert - Chile
Atacama desert - Chile

Moreover you can see here guanacos, vicuñas, desert foxes, flamingos and if you are lucky even the puma!

 

Let's start from the Cordillera del Sal surrounded by the volcanoes, like the Licancàbur Volcan (5912m)

 

Here is possible to visit Moon Valley, Valle de la Muerte awesome but very touristics or  Vallecito beautiful as well but not crowded 

 

The numerous agencies in San Pedro de Atacama (but also Civitatis or Getyourguide) organize various guided tours, usually in the afternoon combining them with a sunset view with an aperitif.

 

 The most beautiful lagoons around San Pedro de Atacama

 

1 - Piedras Rojas, the iconic red lava formations surrounded by the turquoise waters of a lagoon and volcanoes


Piedras Rojas - Atacama - Chile
Piedras Rojas

2 - Laguna Miniques and Laguna Miscanti, with a sparkling blue color and nestled between the Andes and the volcanoes

Laguna Miscanti
Laguna Miscanti

3 - Laguna Chaxa inhabited by flamingos in the Salar de Atacama, an arid landscape characterized by spectacular rock formations and vast salt fields, awesome lagoons inhabited by flamingos and surrounded by the Andes  and the volcanoes.

Laguna Chaxa - flamingoes
Laguna Chaxa

All these lagoons can be visited with a day tour that starts from San Pedro and can be booked in local agencies on site or online, but also on civitatis or getyourguide: our choice Alabalti Atacama and it was a memorable day (no adv)

 

 Geyser de El Tatio

Departure at 5 am to see the surreal spectacle of the geysers at dawn in one of the highest geothermal field in the world at 4300m!

Geothermal area El Tatio - Chile
El Tatio

Dress with very warm clothing because regardless of the time of year the temperature in the early morning is between -5 and -10!

 

This is an unmissable experience that is worth the early wake-up and the cold


We went there with a tour with Pukarumi Travel and we had a good time (no adv)

  

Milky Way

 

Just outside San Pedro de Atacama you can see a wonderful sky with a myriad of stars and the Milky Way.

Milky way - Atacama desert
Milky way - Atacama desert

To live this memorable experience, we recommend taking part to a tour with an astronomer who, in addition to taking you to a place free of light pollution, will explain the various constellations and provide you with a telescope! We took the tour on Getyourguide with  Hoyri Atacama (they are great: no adv), but in San Pedro there are many agencies that organize such tour.

 


Santiago del Chile

Santiago del Chile is a modern city with a colonial heart that can be visited on foot in a day/half day!

Highlights:

 

-Plaza de Armas and Cathedral

-Mirador Cerro Santa Lucia

-Biblioteca Nacional de Chile

-A typical seafood lunch in Mercado Central

-If you have more time: Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino or La Chascona (Pablo Neruda’s House) or Mirador Cerro San Cristobal (reachable by cablecar)

 

 

  Around Santiago, perfect for a day trip:

-Valparaiso: a colorful, bohemian town, full of murals overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Since we only had 1 day, we opted for this and went there with a GYG tour and we had a great time (no adv)

- the Cajon del Maipo between magnificent mountain views, characteristic Andean towns and the turquoise lake located at the foot of the Embalse El Yeso dam

-a wine tasting in one of the many wineries in the area

 

From/to Santiago del Chile Airport to the city center, we suggest you https://www.transvip.cl/   that offered shared shuttle bus or private cars at very honest price


 BOLIVIA


RESERVA EDUARDO AVAROA AND SALAR DE UYUNI

Our arrival in Bolivia couldn't have started better... endless salt flats, lagoons, flamingos, geysers, thermal springs, rock formations, volcanoes... all between 4000-5000m altitude!

 

Given the total isolation of the area and the off- roads, the best way to visit them is an organized 3/4 days tour in a 4WD.


The tour starts from Uyuni or  - as we did  -from San Pedro de Atacama in Chile and finish in Uyuni in Bolivia or come back in San Pedro  

 

To visit the Eduardo Avaroa Reserve and the Salar de Uyuni which are among the highlights of the trip there are tours at various prices, but if you can invest in a private tour to enjoy in safety, at your best and according to your own times the extraordinary beauty of this area.


Also, consider that often in shared tours you sleep in shared dormitories and in (freezing) accommodations without heating.


We relied on Cordillera Traveller https://cordilleratraveller.com/en/home-cordillera-traveller-english/  and it was great (no adv )


There are many agencies that offer tours even at rock-bottom prices, but before booking check the reviews, because in such remote and rugged areas it is essential to rely on serious tour operators. In fact, unpleasant experiences and accidents are reported due to drunk drivers or drivers without the necessary skills to drive off-road or with old/not appropriate vehicles.

Reserve Eduardo Avaroa

 

 After leaving San Pedro de Atacama and crossing the land border between Chile and Bolivia at Hito Cajon, we began the tour of the beautiful REA

 

Here the  higlights of the first day!

 1 - Green Lagoon and White Lagoon at 4300 m, located at the foot of the Licancabur Volcan  (5960m)

Green Lagoon - Bolivia
Green Lagoon - Bolivia

2 - enjoy a bath in the natural hot thermal pool  (34 degrees) of Termas de Polques at 4300 slm (extra -ticket 6 bob per person)

3 -  Desierto de Dali rocks formations

Dali desert - Bolivia
Dali Desert - Bolivia

4 - Sol de Manana Geyser and fumaroles at 4850m

Sol de Manana geothermal area
Sol de Manana

5 – Laguna Colorada (4278m), the iconic red lake populated by flamingos and vicunas

Laguna Colorada - Bolivia
Laguna Colorada - Bolivia

6 - awesome and bizarre rocks formations:  Desierto de Siloli & Arbol de Piedra at 4700m

 

Reserva Eduardo Avoroa ticket is purchased in cash at the ticket office and it is valid for 2/3 days: 150 bob per person (approx. 20 euro)

 

In San Pedro de Atacama therefore change some money in bob as the entrance tickets can be  paid only in cash (ask the guide how much to change based on the updated entrance rates)

 

Sleep in the desert at 4670 meters above sea level:  a unique experience!

 

Our hotel (Tayka Desert Hotel) is located in the Siloli desert and is an ecological hotel, powered only by solar panels and therefore from 11 pm to 5 am the electricity is turned off and there is hot water only in the evening.

 

The rooms are quite heated but here the nights are freezing and the temperature can reach -20. Anyway, in the bed under the covers with the hot water bottles they give you (essential!) you feel good

 

Sleeping at 4670 meters above sea level is not easy because the oxygen is rarefied so to limit altitude sickness it is recommended

- light dinner and avoid drinking alcohol

- sleep with 2 pillows in an elevated position

- drink mate de coca (until 17/18 max)

- take a Diamox tab in the morning and in the evening (but only after consult your doctor)

- try to spend at least 2-3 previous nights above 2500/3000 masl to acclimatize

 

We were quite well (only a few mild symptoms), but having a headache, difficulty digesting and sleeping, shortness of breath is quite common.

 

At the reception they have oxygen tanks and 5 minutes of oxygen already helps to reduce the symptoms

 

And would you spend a night here?

 

 Reserve Edoardo Avaroa - part 2

 

The visit of Riserva Edoardo Avaroa continues and another day awaits us among stunning panoramas and hundreds of flamingos 

 

1.       Highland Lagoons (4100/4200 slm) populated by hundreds of flamingos:  Honda lagoon, Cañapa lagoon, Laguna Hedionda 

2.       Turquiri lagoon (black lagoon) 4300 slm

3.       view on the Vulcano Ollague (5865m)

 

 Salar De Uyuni

 

The largest salt flats in the world (12.000 kms2), at over 3600m altitude! 

 

In the dry season, the perspective is lost between the dazzling white salt flats contrasting with the clear blue sky, while in the wet season (from December to March) when it is covered by a light layer of water that reflects the clouds, the horizon disappears and it seems to be suspended in the sky

Unleash your creativity with photos with perspective games and don't miss the sunset that it is very suggestive


Highlights

Dakar Rally monument - Salar de Uyuni
Dakar Rally monument - Salar de Uyuni

-Dakar Rally monument, the first Salt Hotel and the Flag Square of the World

 -buy local handicrafts and salt in Colchani

 -Isla Incahuasi (means Inka House) a hill covered by millenarians cactus surrounded by a white sea of ​​salt, which looks like an island in the heart of the Salar de Uyuni

Incahuasi Island - Salar de Uyuni
Incahuasi Island - Salar de Uyuni

During the dry season, don't miss the spectacular circular walk (30 min) to reach the highest point of the island/hill (ticket 30 bob)

 

Curiosity : a cactus grows 1cm per year and the tallest is 12m so it is 1200 years old!

 

If you want to gift you a special experience, stay in a salt hotel: the two best hotels are Palacio del Sal Hotel and Hotel Luna Salada!


Train Cemetery, Uyuni

 

Uyuni was originally destined to become an important transportation hub for trains in South America but this project failed due to the collapse of the mining industry in the 1940s

 

Train cemetery - Uyuni
Train cemetery - Uyuni

Instead of dismantling the trains, the demoralized population of Uyuni abandoned the trains that now form the train graveyard we see.

 

Honestly, this stop has become very touristy, but it's nothing special... so go there but don't spend more than half an hour on it

 

POTOSI

 

We leave Uyuni and with a local bus in 4 hours we reach Potosi (expreso 11 de Julio booked on www.ticketsbolivia.com.bo/)

Potosi was famous for the great extraction of silver in the past and is worth a visit for its colonial architectures (see highlights above) 

 

Santa Teresa monastery - Potosi
Santa Teresa monastery - Potosi

We were there at the end of August and we found the feast of the patron saint San Bartolomé so many attractions were closed, however the city was celebrating, with musical bands and parades in traditional costumes!

 

 SUCRE

We leave Potosi and with a local bus (Trans Emperador booked online at www.ticketsbolivia.com.bo/) in 3 hours (actually then 4h 😅) we reach Sucre, called the White City and perhaps the most beautiful colonial city in Bolivia

 

Sucre aerial view
Sucre

Highlights

 

1.       Plaza de Mayo & Cathedral

2.       See the city from the above from the Dome of the Prefectura de Chuquisaca

3.       Casa de la Libertad, where the Bolivia’s declaration of independence was signed on August 6, 1825

4.       The view from the Convento de San Felipe Neri rooftop

5.       Museo Nacional de Etnografia y Folklore

6.       Barrio Recoleta

7.       Campesino Market

 

Sucre is the constitutional capital of Bolivia and  La Paz is the administrative capital

 

 When planning your trip to Bolivia, try to be in Sucre on Sunday so you can reach the famous and colorful Tarabuco market (about 70km from Sucre), reachable in a day with micros (public minivans) that leave from the center of Sucre or via private transfers organized by hotels/taxis

 

We were supposed to go but it was the national pedestrian day in Bolivia and unfortunately it was cancelled because all public and private transports were stopped until 6pm: on the other hand the city was celebrating with traditional dances, music and parades.

 

Where to eat in Sucre:

Dinner: El Solar

Lunch: La Posada

Aperitif with a view: Mirador San Miguel Cafè

 


LA PAZ

From Sucre we reach La Paz with an internal flight (the alternative was a 12h night bus)

Colorful, chaotic ... but also a difficult city, where social protests and roadblocks are quite frequents (in 5 days we saw at least 2 protest) and you can feel all the economic, social and political instability of Bolivia


Honest opinion: we didn't like La Paz very much and it's the only place where we didn't feel safe walking around alone. Obviously, the fact that I had salmonella there which forced me to take a trip to a clinic and stay in bed for 3 days (and made me skip the trek to the Charquini Mountain and Lagoon and 2 days between Copacabana and Isla del Sol on Lake Titicaca) didn't help.


So is it safe to walk around alone? Yes and no


We took a guided tour and partly walked around alone, but only in the most central areas and avoided walking around in the evening and so we didn't have any problems. Obviously you need to be more careful than in the rest of Bolivia


Highlights

1.       Cableway to El Alto to see the colorful neighborhood of the Aymara architect Freddy Mamani and the city from the above

2.       Iglesia San Francisco

3.       Plaza Murillo, Catedral Metropolitana and the Presidential Palace

4.       The picturesque Artesania Alley and Las Brujas Market

5.       Calle Jaen, the most beautiful colonial street in La Paz

 

Nearby La Paz:

1.Moon Valley

 

A bizarre labyrinth of canyons and pinnacles  that create a particular landscape that reminded us  Cappadocia

 

It is located 10km from the center of La Paz and is perfect for spending a couple of hours outside the urban chaos of La Paz: we went there with a guided tour, as the area is not marked as very safe

 

2.Tiwanaco

 

 Inside the site you can see the ruins of huge carved monoliths, portals (the most famous is the Puerta del Sol associated with the sun deity) temples, all carved with astronomical symbolism

According to the most likely hypothesis it was a ceremonial center at 3900m built over a millennium ago in the pre-Inca era

 

The site is not exceptional sincerly, but for history lovers, it is certainly an interesting day trip from La Paz

 

Tiwanaco is located about 70km from La Paz and can be reached with an organized tour including transportation and a guide (so you also have an explanation of the site) at very reasonable prices (the tours are offered by numerous agencies in La Paz or can also be found on GYG).

 

Ticket entrance: 100 bob per person

 


COPACABANA, TITICACA LAKE, ISLA DEL SOL

Titicaca Lake is the highest navigable lake in the world (3808m) ...we had seen the Peruvian side in 2019 and this time we would have visited the Bolivian side, having a different experience ...  spend a night on one of its islands: Isla del Sol

For the visit we opted for a 2-day tour organized by Civitatis from La Paz but we had to cancel it because of the Francesca’s salmonellosi

 

Isla del Sol offers wonderful views of the mountains of the Cordillera Real and of Titicaca  Lake as well as the possibility of hiking and visiting ancient Inca ruins...but attention! In fact due to  a conflict between the 3 local communities,  for visitors is forbidden going north of Yumani. For this reason we recommend a guided tour.

 

Others Practical info


Entry Requirements for Argentina and Chile


All the information below was valid as of August/September 2024, therefore please check the official website of the Farnesina, https://www.viaggiaresicuri.it/ for any updates or changes


Bolivia

For Italian citizens, a passport is required, with residual validity of at least 6 months upon arrival in the country, as well as a return ticket.

An entry visa is not required for tourist stays of less than 3 months.

Upon entry into/exit from Bolivia, Form No. 250 ("Sworn declaration of accompanied baggage and entry/exit of currency") must be filled out: it can be downloaded at the following link http://anbsw01.aduana.gob.bo:7401/viajero/formPublico250.do


Chile

For Italian citizens, a passport is required, with residual validity of at least 6 months upon arrival in the country.

An entry visa is not required for tourist stays of less than 3 months

Be careful not to lose the copy of the immigration slip received upon entry into the country, as it is required to exit Chile. In the event of theft, it must be reported immediately.

Upon entry into the country, you are required to fill out an online form (https://djsimple.sag.gob.cl/) in which you declare that you are not carrying products of plant or animal origin as well as currency exceeding 10,000 USD


When to Go


A good period to visit both Bolivia and Northern Chile is August/September, which is the end of the southern winter, so temperatures are cold but not freezing and since it is the dry season, it rarely rains


With less cold temperatures, but very rainy is the southern summer (especially January – February): in this season, however, it is possible to admire the spectacle of the Salar de Uyuni covered by the rain, which is very suggestive (but keep in mind that in this period, however, tours are often cancelled due to bad weather)



Internal transports


A good compromise to balance times/costs, but also enjoy the trip slowly, is to opt for internal flights for the longer routes (e.g. Santiago de Chile/Calama and Sucre/La Paz) and then travel the rest with local buses.


To visit the Eduardo Avaroa Reserve and the Salar de Uyuni, given the total isolation of the area and the absent/rough roads, the best way to visit them is an organized 3/4 days tour in a 4WD. (our choice:  Cordillera Traveller https://cordilleratraveller.com/en/home-cordillera-traveller-english / and it was perfect (no adv)


The tours start from Uyuni or - as we did - from San Pedro de Atacama in Chile to end in Uyuni in Bolivia or return to San Pedro

 

For internal flights we opted to LATAM for the Santiago de Chile/Calama flight and to return from La Paz to Santiago de Chile which offers frequent flights at convenient prices (if booked well in advance) and for buses in Bolivia (Uyuni - Potosi: 4h and Potosi - Sucre: 3h) you can book them online on https://www.ticketsbolivia.com.bo/ 


Where to Sleep & Eat


Accomodations are simple/functionals but generally good both in the North of Chile and in Bolivia: the costs in Chile are a bit higher (but still reasonable, if you book in advance) while in Bolivia you can find central hotel with excellent reviews at a very convenient prices.


For dinner/lunch out the costs are not very low in Chile (25 euros per person on average), especially in the more touristic areas; while in Bolivia you spend very little to eat out and the portions are quite generous (less than 10 euros per person on average)


The cuisine is similar to the Mediterranean one, mainly with soups, rice, vegetables, chicken, llama meat and in Santiago de Chile/ Valparaiso also fish


Here are some restaurants where we ate well at honest prices (no adv)


San Pedro de Atacama

Las Delicias de Carmen: try the Noche menu with typical dishes cooked in a homely way

Restaurant Tierra todo natural: very characteristic place with a fireplace in the center, good soups and very inviting grilled meat

Tara La Pica del Regalon: very local with plastic chairs and checkered tablecloths: perfect for tasting traditional dishes for lunch


Viña del mar

Chinqui del Mar: excellent fish dishes (try the tuna and the Reineta) and a room with an ocean view


Uyuni

Minuteman (inside the Tonito Hotel): very good pizza, to compete with many Italian pizzerias


Potosi

4060 Restaurant: try the chicken with honey mustard sauce


Sucre

El Solar: gourmet dinner in a chic ambient

La Posada restaurant: for a lunch with traditional Bolivian specialties in a colonial courtyard. Try the typical Maki Maki soup

Cafe Mirador San Miguel: for an aperitif with a view

 

Safety & Cleanliness


 We found Chile very safe, but you need to be a little careful in Bolivia and in particular is La Paz as we said above.


Hotels are generally clean both in Chile and Bolivia, while the sanitary conditions especially in Bolivia are limited: therefore it is strongly recommended to drink only bottled water (even for brushing your teeth) as well as consume only well-cooked food.


Despite our very high level of attention, it is easy to get salmonella which is also transmitted by simply handling cooked food with contaminated hands or utensils: therefore with hindsight perhaps I would also avoid eggs even if cooked.


Altitude


The trip in the area surrounding San Pedro de Atacama and especially in Bolivia takes place mostly between 3500 and 5000 m above sea level, therefore to limit altitude sickness (especially when spending the night above 3000 m) it is recommended:

- light dinner and avoid drinking alcohol

- sleep with 2 pillows in an elevated position

- drink mate de coca (until 17/18 max)

- take a Diamox pill in the morning and in the evening (but only after consult your doctor)

- try to acclimatize before spending the night above 3000 m

 

Internet


When traveling independently we recommend having Internet available on your cell phone.

We opted for an e-sim with unlimited data: Holafly (for 21 days cost about 65 euros)


The alternative is a local sim with a voice and data package


Costs


In Chile the costs for accommodation, meals, excursions, taxis are similar to Europe while in Bolivia the costs of hotels, meals, taxis, buses are low


Anyway, it is possible to save a bit:

- Surely the highest cost of the trip is for the intercontinental flight, so book it well in advance (at least 6 -8 months before). The same goes for internal flights for which you can find low prices but only by booking them months in advance.


- In general, even for accommodation it is best to book them in advance (4-6 months before) to get the best rates especially in Chile where hotel prices are much higher than in Bolivia.


- To visit the Eduardo Avaroa Reserve and the Salar de Uyuni which are among the highlights of the trip there are tours at various prices, but if you can invest in a private tour to enjoy in safety, at your best and according to your own times the extraordinary beauty of this area. Also, consider that often in shared tours you sleep in shared dormitories and in (freezing) accommodations without heating.


We relied on Cordillera Traveller https://cordilleratraveller.com/en/home-cordillera-traveller-english/  and was great (no adv )


There are many agencies that offer tours even at rock-bottom prices, but before booking check the reviews, because in such remote and rugged areas it is essential to rely on serious tour operators. In fact, unpleasant experiences and accidents are reported due to drunk drivers or drivers without the necessary skills to drive off-road or with old/not appropriate vehicles.


-The costs of excursions in both Chile and Bolivia are on average high, so book at least the main ones in advance to be sure of finding a place and all in all they don't cost less on site


Vaccinations


For Bolivia, vaccination against yellow fever is mandatory for all travelers coming from countries at risk of transmission of the disease (not Italy) or who have transited in a country where the disease is endemic, as well as for travelers who go to locations in the following Bolivian departments where the disease is endemic: Chuquisaca, La Paz, Cochabamba, Tarija, Santa Cruz, Beni and Pando.


We were not asked but the local authorities have intensified checks on the International Vaccination Certificate (yellow booklet) due to increase of the yellow fever: vaccination against yellow fever, after consulting a doctor, is therefore recommended for all travelers who go to Bolivia.


In general, before embarking on this trip, we recommend that you consult the medical center for travelers  to evaluate any additional optional but recommended vaccinations and if take  Diamox pills to combat altitude sickness.


Other utilities


In Bolivia, card payments are not always accepted (particularly in some restaurants, but also in some hotels or for excursions); moreover, the exchange rate applied with card payments is less favorable, which is why it is advisable to change cash (outside the airport).


We therefore recommend that you bring plenty of cash (USD and/or Euros).


In Chile, card payments are generally accepted and the exchange rate applied to card payments is the same as that of exchange offices. Sometimes, paying in cash saves you a little in hotels.

 

Always be sure to have a good health insurance (it was vital when I had the salmonella in La Paz) against any eventuality.

 

 

To discover more about our trip in  Chile (North) and Bolivia, have a look to our posts and stories dedicated to these countries on our Instagram page @2intour dated  October - December 2024


Find info about Southern Chile in the article about our trip in Patagonia published on the blog and in the posts/stories on our Instagram page @2intour  dated  December 2023 - April 2024

 

Did you enjoy our article? Read the other articles and for more photos and videos follow our IG page @2intour


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