Discover our ultimate travel itinerary through Argentine and Chilean Patagonia, packed with essential tips, practical info and inspiration to help you craft your own unforgettable trip!
…blue and boundless….these are the most recurring words to describe Patagonia, in our opinion! Blue like the glacial lakes, the icebergs, the glaciers, the skies and the sea….immense like the spaces, the Andes and the distances…
A road trip to the edge of the world, to be done once in a lifetime for lovers of nature and remote landscapes….rocky mountains, lagoons, imposing glaciers, icebergs, forests, steppes, lighthouses, tiny islands inhabited only by penguins, seals, sea lions… wonderful!
Our itinerary in Patagonia day by day:
Day 0 - international flight Italy- Argentina ITA AIRWAYS
Florence 19.10 – Rome (Fiumicino) 20.00 + Rome (Fiumicino) 22.30 – Buenos Aires Ministro Pistarini EZE (8.40am day after)
Day 1 - landing in Buenos Aires at 8.40am + visit Buenos Aires: Historical center (Plaza de Mayo, Casa Rosada, Catedral Metropolitana, Av. Avenida de Mayo, Palacio Barolo, Av. Florida ) and La Boca (La Bombonera Stadium, El Caminito)
Night in Buenos Aires in Hotel Ker San Telmo
Day 2 – internal flight with Aerolineas Argentina: Buenos Aires AEP (Aeroparque Jorge Newbery) 14.10– Ushuaia 18.00 – New Year’s Eve in Ushuaia
Night in Ushuaia in Apartamento Monseñor Fagnano 592
Day 3 – visit Ushuaia center in the morning (Av. Maipu overlooking the sea, Cartel del Fin del Mundo, Cartel Ushuaia, Iglesia de la Merced, Penguin murales) – half day (3pm-8pm) boat tour in the Beagle Channel to see its islands, seals and sea lions, Eclaireurs lighthouse, penguin colony in Isla Martillo with Tolkeyen Patagonia
Night in Ushuaia in Apartamento Monseñor Fagnano 592
Day 4 – Tierra del Fuego NP (End of the World panoramic train, Ensenada Zaratiegui/Southernmost Post Office, Senda Costera trail: 8km/3-4h one way, Lapataia Bay Mirador)
Night in Ushuaia in Apartamento Monseñor Fagnano 592
Day 5- Trekking to Laguna Esmeralda – Ushuaia: Museo de la Fin del Mundo - shopping in Av. San Martin & Paseo de los Artesanos
Night in Ushuaia in Apartamento Monseñor Fagnano 592
Day 6– bus (Bus Sur) Ushuaia 8am -Punta Arenas 19pm, including navigation on Strait of Magellan
Night in Punta Arenas in Hostal Boutique Patagonia Mística
Day 7 – half day tour to Isla Magdalena and Marta Island to see penguins and sea lions with Comapa (Solo Expediciones) - Bus (bus sur) Punta Arenas 2pm -Puerto Natales 5pm
Night in Puerto Natales in Cabañas Última Esperanza
Day 8 – TORRES DEL PAINE NP and Cueva del Milodón (full day tour of main viewpoints of Massifs Paine with Comapa: Lake Sarmiento with view on Torres del Paine, Laguna Amarga with view on Torres del Paine, Nordenskjöld with view on Cuernos del Paine, Salto Grande waterfall with view on Paine Grande, Lake Pehoe, Grey Lake Beach, Toro Lake Mirador)
Night in Puerto Natales in Cabañas Última Esperanza
Day 9 – TORRES DEL PAINE NP: trekking to the Torres del Paine bases with Comapa (W Circuit Patagonia)
Night in Puerto Natales in Cabañas Última Esperanza
Day 10– bus (Bus Sur) Puerto Natales 7.30am - El Calafate 13.45– visit El Calafate center (Mirador de la Ciudad, El Calafate cartel, Plaza del Los Pioneros, Paseo de Artesanos, Avenida Libertador) & Riserva Natural Laguna Nimez
Night in El Calafate in Folk Hostel
Day 11 –- LOS GLACIERS NP SOUTH - day tour to Perito Moreno (3kms platforms and 1h of navigation in front of the glacier) with CIVITATIS
Night in El Calafate in Folk Hostel
El Chalten NP NORTH– Full Day tour to El Chalten (Mirador del Condor and Laguna Capri Trek with view on Fitz Roy) with Get your guide (Patagonia Dreams)
Night in El Calafate in Folk Hostel
Day 13 –-LOS GLACIERS NP SOUTH P - boat day tour on Lago Argentino to see icebergs, Upsala and Spiegazzini Glaciers with CIVITATIS (Solo Patagonia)
Night in El Calafate in Folk Hostel
Day 14 - flight EL CALAFATE - Buenos Aires AEP (Aeroparque Newbery) with Aerolineas Argentina 13.40-16.35 - Tango Show and Dinner at Mansion Tango Theater
Night in Buenos Aires in Hotel Ker San Telmo
Day 15– Buenos Aires : Congreso de la Nacion Argentina - Teatro Colon - Obelisco/Av.9 de Julio - La Recoleta Cemetery - Av. Florida- Puerto Madero - San Telmo (Mercado de San Telmo + Plaza Dorrego)
Night in Buenos Aires in Hotel Ker San Telmo
Day 16 -flight Buenos Aires Ministro Pistarini EZE h 13.45 – Italia con ITA AIRWAYS
Day 17– arrive in Florence at 10.55 am
Place by place itinerary
USHUAIA
Ushuaia is the last outpost of civilization: we are in fact at the edge of the world, at the 55th parallel South, on the southernmost point of Argentina, just 1000km from Antarctica
Here below the Top Things to see/do in Ushuaia and nearby:
Beagle Channel and Penguin Island
From the port of Ushuaia it is possible to take part to a 5 hour boat tour to cross the Beagle Channel which separates Argentina from Chile, sail along its islands, see the iconic red and white lighthouse of Les Eclaireurs (one of the southernmost lighthouse in the world), spot the seals and sea lions as well as going to Isla Martillo to see the penguins….
This is an unmissable experience if you are in Ushuaia! Book it in advance because otherwise you risk not finding a place. At the port there are various agencies that offer tours: we relied on Tolkeyen Patagonia, booked online from home (no adv, but we were happy with it and that's why we're recommending it)
Tierra del Fuego National Park
The park, nestled between the Beagle Channel, Ande mountain complex and the coastal forest is located 10 km far from Ushuaia
Highligths you can't miss:
Lapataia Bay Mirador. Here it also finishes the famous Ruta 3, the road to the end of the world!
Lapataia Bay - Ushuaia Ensenada Zaratiegui where the world’s most southern post office is located
1h panoramic ride on the End of the World train (very touristic), used in the past to take convicts to labor camps
The panoramic coastal path “Senda Costera” (8km One Way /3-4h - medium level) with stunning views on bays with crystal clear sea, Andes and the coastal forest. Consider an entire day for the visit or half day if you skip the coastal trekking
All the practical info to organize the visit:
Tierra del Fuego NP can be reached from Ushuaia taking part to an organized tour (for example see Tolkeyen Patagonia or Getyourguide or Civitatis) or on your own by shuttle bus (for example with Tiempo Libre or Transporte Regular at the bus station in Ushuaia (+54 9 2901 307850 WhatsApp) or by taxi (the way back with the shuttle bus or taxi need to be booked in advance because in the park there is no phone signal at all)
With the shuttle bus or the taxi you can arrive to Tren del Fin del Mundo Station (if you also want to get the train arrive at 8.30 maximum to take the first ride at 9) or to Ensenada Zaratiegui. From here you can do the Senda Costera Trail and ask the shuttle bus or taxi a pick up in the afternoon from Lapataia Mirador or from the visitor center Alakush to come back in Ushuaia
If you opt for a tour: most of the tours finish at 1pm, but you can decide to remain in the park and make the awesome Senda Costera trekking on your own and come back to Ushuaia by taxi or by bus; remember to book the transfer in advance because in the park there is no phone signal at all
Tickets:
Tickets for Tierra del Fuego NP (12000ARS/12 euro per person) to be purchased online in advance on http://ventaweb.apn.gob.ar/reserva/parques or at the ticket office (only cash)
Tickets for Tren del Fin del Mundo (29000 Ars/29 euro per person ) to be purchased online in advance or at the ticket office (only cash)
Laguna Esmeralda
An awesome turquoise lagoon nestled between mountains and glaciers
The path to reach it (1h30 outward and 1h30 back/10km in total with 200m altitude difference) is not too tiring and the head trail is located 20km from the center of Ushuaia, so it is a lovely day trek from Ushuaia.
The trail takes place partly in the forest and partly along the river. Put on your hiking boots and not simple sneakers, because some sections are muddy
You can reach the trek starting point by shuttle bus (for example see Tiempo Libre or Transporte Regular at the bus station in Ushuaia) or taxi/Uber from/to Ushuaia or with a guided tour (for example see Tolkeyen Patagonia or Getyourguide or Civitatis)
Ushuaia center
Things to see/do on foot in the center of Ushuaia
near the tourist port: Museo del Fin del Mundo, the iconic Bienvenidos a la ciudad del Fin del Mundo cartel and not far away the colorful penguin murales
Continuing along the seafront (Av Maipu) on the west: you will find the scartel with the writing Ushuia, Plaza Malvinas and not far away the colorful Iglesia Nuestra Señora de la Merced
to buy handicrafts and some souvenirs go to the Paseo de los Artesanos on the seafront or in the main street, Calle San Martin
for a walk and birdwatching go to the Reserva Natural Urbana Bahía Encerrada
at the tourist office ask for the Ushuaia stamp put on your passport, which certifies that you have been in the southernmost city in the world
Where to eat: Volver, to try the typical king crab
Our base in Ushuaia: Apartamento Monseñor Fagnano 592: nice, clean, not very expensive and walking distance from the touristic port (no adv)
PUNTA ARENAS
From Ushuaia in Argentina we took a local bus and after 11 hours we arrived in Punta Arenas in Chile. A slow journey, but which allowed us to enjoy the landscape of Patagonia, as well as crossing the famous Strait of Magellan which separates the Ocean Atlantic from Pacific!
Practical info
1- The direct bus from Ushuaia to Punta Arenas is not available every day (in the other days you have to make changes) and especially in pic season, it is recommended to book it in advance online, to be sure of finding a seat: for timetables, costs and tickets see www.bussur.com
2- To cross the border between Argentina and Chile, check in advance if a visa is requested.
If you are wondering: there are currently no direct flights connecting Ushuaia and Punta Arenas and the few flights that exist have 1-2 stopovers and have high costs. An experience that we definitely recommend, because the buses are very comfortable and the hours at the end of the day pass quickly while watching the changing landscape outside the window. Furthermore, the bus crosses the famous Strait of Magellan by ferry.
Our base in Punta Arenas: Hostal Boutique Patagonia Mística: nice, clean and walking distance from the Bus Sur station and the Solo Expediciones office from where the boat tour to Isla Magdalena & Isla Marta leaves
Isla Magdalena & Isla Marta
From Punta Arenas there is the possibility to take part to a guided boat tour along the famous Strait of Magellan towards Isla Magdalena and Isla Marta, to see the Magellanic penguins and the sea lions !
On Isla Magdalena, you can also make a panoramic walk to reach the iconic lighthouse and thus seen the penguins closely!
During navigation we have crossed also the famous Strait of Magellan which separates the Atlantic Ocean from the Pacific!
This is a super recommended experience if you are in Punta Arenas!
We booked the Boat tour booked with Comapa/Solo Expediciones https://www.comapa.com/en/tours/tour-pinguinos/ (120USD per person/4-5h, including entrance fees). The tour is quite expensive, but it worths with any doubt in our opinion and should be booked well in advance since the places are few
A bit of curiosity about penguins and sea lions:
- Did you know that penguins are monogamous... but for a limited period?
In fact, they keep the same partner not for life, but only for the breeding season! However, every year they tend to return to the same place, so it can happen that they meet again, year after year!
- Sea lions are huge: 300kg for 1.70m!
On average, there is one male sea lion for every 20 females, but despite this they are very territorial and aggressive towards other males!
PUERTO NATALES - Torres del Paine National Park
The journey in Chilean Patagonia continues: from Punta Arenas we move (always by bus with www.bussur.com) to Puerto Natales: our base to visit the famous Torres del Paine National Park
Puerto Natales is about 100km from the NP, therefore we will take part to excursions with local guides (www.comapa.com – no adv but they provided us a good service and thus we recommend them!) to visit the main panoramic points of the park, a trekking to the base of Torres del Paine, transfers to/from Puerto Natales (closer to the park there are very few accomodations and the costs are prohibitive )
Our base in Puerto Natales: Cabañas Última Esperanza. A bit old, but the apartments are huge and the kitchen is perfectly equipped. It is also in a good location, being a stone's throw from the center and 1km from the bus station
On the way from Puerto Natales to the park entrance, we have often encountered Guanacos (one of the four species of South American camelids, together with the alpaca, the llama and the vicuna that we had seen in Peru!) In addition to the guanacos, inside the park you can see condors, eagles and if you are very lucky the puma.
In the austral summer (from December to February) the vegetation is lush and the lupines bloom. It is also possible to see the fruits of the calafate, a type of berry similar to the blueberry typical of these areas with which they make infusions, liqueurs, jams.
We dedicated the first day entirely to visiting the main panoramic points of the park... a memorable day immersed in iconic granite mountains, blue lakes, glaciers, waterfalls, lenga forests and turquoise lagoons...
Paine means blue e now we have understood the reason
Here below the list of the Torres del Paine National Park highlights:
Lake Sarmiento with view on Torres del Paine
Laguna Amarga with view on Torres del Paine
Lake Nordenskjöld with view on Cuernos del Paine
Salto Grande waterfall with view on Cerro del Paine Grande
Lake Pehoe Mirador, the heart of the park
Grey Lake & Glacier
Toro Lake Mirador
Cueva del Milodón
The park is very big and to move from one panoramic point to another you need a car or, as we did, take part to an organized tour. We booked this tour (no adv): https://www.comapa.com/en/tours/tour-torres-del-paine/ (65 USD per person, including transfer from/to Puerto Natales; excluding the entrance ticket to the PN and Cueva del Milon)
The entrance ticket to the Torres del Paine National Park (39 USD per person for 3 days) must be purchased online in advance on the website https://aspticket.cl ; On the same website you can also buy the ticket for the Cueva del Milodon (12 USD per person)
The ticket for the Cueva del Milodon can also be purchased at the ticket office at the entrance, but only in cash; while the ticket for the PN del Torres del Paine can only be purchased online
But what is the Milodon? It is a sort of giant sloth (2m long / 1 ton) that lived in this area in prehistoric times and is now extinct. Honestly, we expected more from this site since it is a national monument.
One of the highlights of the National Park is Gray Lake with giant floating icebergs coming from the Gray Glacier. To see the glacier front the options are:
1)3h navigation (one way) from Hotel Lago Grey
2) or a navigation of 30min from Lago Pehoe to Guarderia Paine Grande + 3,5h (one way) trekking to Guarderia Grey
We saw the front of the glacier only in the distance from the beach of Lago Grey where the giant icebergs were floating since we will see the glaciers in El Calafate. However, if you have an extra day it is worth dedicating it to Lago/Glacier Grey
Trekking to the base of the Torres del Paine
We dedicated the second day to trekking to the base of the Torres del Paine
One of the most challenging treks ever done in our life .... departure at 7 in the morning, 18 km / altitude difference of 1000m/ 9 hours of walking ... but we did it and this view on the 3 famous granite towers of Torres del Paine on a turquoise lagoon repays all the effort!
The trek is well signposted, but since it is long and challenging we preferred to do it with a guide so as to have a guide who could help us keep the correct timing as well as have transfers to/from Puerto Natales (this is the guided trek we booked: always with Comapa (operated by W Circuit Patagonia) https://www.comapa.com/en/tours/trekking-base-torres/ : 85 USD per person, including transfers to/from Puerto Natales; not including the park entrance ticket: this is the one we did on the first day - see above - and since it is valid for 3 days we already had it)
If you decide to do the trek independently to/from Puerto Natales there is a bus that takes you to/from the park but, leave very early in the morning because around 2-3 pm the park rangers close the access to the last stretch of the trek and so if you arrive late you risk having done 2/3 of the route and having to come back.
An alternative to break up the trek into 2 days is to sleep at the Chilean refuge which is about halfway along the route (booking well in advance)
The trek to the base of Torres del Paine is the most iconic hike of the longest W circuit, a 4-5 days trek with stops each night at a different refuge inside the park (for experts hikers only)
El Calafate - Los Glaciares National Park SOUTH
Back in Patagonia Argentina! From Puerto Natales in Chile, we take the last long-distance bus (again www.bussur.com) to reach El Calafate in approx. 6 hours, where we will stay to visit the famous Los Glaciares National Park in the next 3 days
Can you imagine what kind of beauty we are about to see?
Los Glaciares National Park is the third largest ice mass on the planet, behind only Antarctica and Greenland, and is divided into the Southern part, which is home of some of the most impressive glaciers in the world, including the famous Perito Moreno, and the Northern part, which is home to Fitz Roy and El Chalten, one of the most spectacular trekking areas in all of Argentina.
To visit the Southern part, the best option is to base in El Calafate, while to visit the Northern part, to base in El Chalten. Unfortunately, we had only 3 days and thus we opted to stay always in El Calafate, dedicating only one day to El Chalten with a day trip. However, if you have 1-2 additionnal days and you love trekking, we definitely recommend spending at least 2-3 days in El Chalten to do the iconic trek to the Laguna de los Tres at the foot of Fitz Roy, as well as some of the other various panoramic treks.
Los Glaciares National Park South: Perito Moreno & Spegazzini Glaciers
We dedicated the first day to the Perito Moreno
As glacier lovers, we finally can see one of the most impressive in the world: Perito Moreno... Between 50-60m high and with an uninterrupted front of over 5km, this is the third biggest one in the Los Glaciares NP... a spectacle of nature that will leave you breathless and for us a dream comes true!
To see Perito Moreno, walk along the 3kms panoramic platforms that offer countless breathtaking views and take a boat ride to get close to the ice front!
It is also possible to take part to a guided treks on the glacier, for an even more memorable experience!
During the austral summer, it is also likely to see the detachment of enormous blocks of ice separating from the glacial front and sink into Lake Argentino... a bittersweet spectacle, because each collapse testifies to the fragility of this natural wonder that unfortunately, since 2020 have been started to retreat
To see the Perito Moreno (which is about 70km from El Calafate) we took part in a tour booked with Civitatis (not adv, but it is among the best quality/price) https://www.civitatis.com/it/el-calafate/ Escursioni-ghiacciaio-perito-moreno/ (65 USD per person, including the transfer from/to El Calafate + 1h of navigation in front of the glacier; the entrance ticket to Los Glaciares NP is not included)
The costs for the tour with the trekking on the Perito Moreno are very high and since we had already done this experience in Norway, we opted for the tour without trekking.
The entrance ticket to Los Glaciares NP costs 18000ARS/25 euros per person and is valid for 2 days, not necessarily consecutive (you will also need it for the navigation on Lake Argentino: see below) and can be purchased at the ticket office on site (only in cash in Argentine pesos) or online in advance at http://ventaweb.apn.gob.ar/reserva/parques
The second day in Los Glaciares National Park South we did an unforgettable experience: a navigation on Lake Argentino between giant icebergs and to see the titanic Uppsala and Spegazzini Glaciers (visible only by sailing)
Uppsala Glacier is the second largest glacier in the Los Glaciares NP (the first is the Viedma Glacier and the third is the Perito Moreno)! However, it is very unstable and therefore you cannot get closer than 10km with the boat, because sometimes very large pieces of ice break off and create very high waves.
Spegazzini Glacier, with peaks up to 130 meters high (double as high respect to Perito Moreno)! The good news is that at least Spegazzini Glacier is one of the very few glaciers in the world that is stable and not reducing
We booked this boat tour with Civitatis (operated by Solo Patagonia) https://www.civitatis.com/it/el-calafate/ Escursioni-parco-nazionale-glaciares-barca / (150 euros per person, including the transfer from/to El Calafate; not including the entrance ticket to the park: this is the one we did on the first day - see above - and since it is valid for 2 days we already had it)
If you are wondering: the tours do not cost less on site, so in the end it is better to book them online in order to avoid the risk of not finding a place.
Some info on the icebergs:
-Why the ice is blue ?Actually the ice doesn’t have any color, but the blue is an optical effect created by the compression and refraction of the light
-As much as the ice is compact, the blue is more vivid
-the part visible of an iceberg is only 10-15%, the remain 85/90% is under the water
Lastly, here below what to do on foot in El Calafate:
- observe pink flamingos and other birds in the Laguna Nimez Natural Reserve
- Admire the panorama of the city and Lake Argentino from the Mirador de la Ciudad hill, where the famous welcome sign to El Calafate is also located
- Buy handicrafts and some souvenirs at Paseo de los Artesanos or in Avenida Libertador
El Chalten - Los Glaciares National Park NORTH
El Chalten is the gateway to the Los Glaciares NP North and numerous treks of varying difficulty start from here
You will be immersed in a wonderful mountain landscape among rocky peaks, blue lagoons, waterfalls, forests and even the possibility of seeing condors... Dominating everything are the iconic sharp peaks of Fitz Roy!
Unfortunately, we have not much time here so we have arrived to Mirador del Condor and then chose a simple trek to the Capri Lagoon (4km - 350m high difference) from which you have a wonderful view on Fitz Roy.
Having only 1 day we went to El Chalten with a day trip from El Calafate booked with Getyourguide (operated by Patagonia Dreams) https://www.getyourguide.it/el-calafate-l544/da-el-calafate-tour-di-1-giorno-a-el-chalten-t233572/ (80 USD per person, including transfer from/to El Calafate along the famous Ruta 40 and stopping on the way at the iconic ranch la Leona)
If you have more time and you are a trekking lovers, plan to stay here at least 2-3days and we recommend also the trekking to Laguna de Los Tres at the Fitz Roy base and the one to Laguna Torre (both trails difficult)
Trekking to Capri Lagoon
If you have not much time or you prefer to avoid a challenging trek like the one to Laguna de Los Tres at the base of Fitz Roy, a good compromise is Laguna Capri trek
A trek of moderate difficulty (one way: 4km -350 altitude difference - 1.30h) from which you have a wonderful view of Fitz Roy... if you are lucky, sometimes Fitz Roy is reflected in the lagoon creating a very suggestive reflection!
BUENOS AIRES
8 must do activities in Buenos Aires, if you have at least 2 days:
wandering in the historical colonial center (highlights: Plaza de Mayo, Casa Rosada, Catedral Metropolitana, Avenida de Mayo, Palacio Barolo )
the lively neighborhood of San Telmo with Plaza Dorrego and the Mercado de San Telmo, perfect also for having lunch or dinner in a typical place
see a tango street performance in the colorful and famous El Caminito street in the authentic La Boca barrio. For the football lovers, in La Boca, do not miss to see also the famous La Bombonera Stadium
Dinner and Tango show in one of the theater: our choice the Mansion Theatre
the monumental Cemiterio de la Recoleta with the tombs of the main protagonists of Argentine history, such as Eva Perón (Evita)
Congreso de la Nacion Argentina, Teatro Colon, Obelisco and Av. 9 de Julio
have a relaxing walk along the river at Puerto Madero
some shopping in Av. Florida (here it is also possible to change money on the street (not advisable) or as we preferred to the official exchange office)
We visited Buenos Aires on foot, since the distances are quite short, but otherwise you can also get around by metro (but the Sube card is mandatory) or by taxi that are not expensive
In Buenos Aires, as in many large cities, watch your backpack and be especially careful in the evening and in the La Boca neighborhood (we recommend arriving at El Caminito and returning by taxi)
Our base: Ker San Telmo Hotel, a good choice since not much expensive and in a central position/walking distance from the main highlights
Others Practical info
Entry Requirements for Argentina and Chile
All the information below was valid as of December 2023, therefore please check the official websites for any updates or changes.
Argentina
For Italian citizens, a valid passport is required. The Argentine authorities do not require a passport to have a minimum residual validity, but it is recommended to travel with a passport that has a residual validity of at least 6 months.
An entry visa is not required for tourist stays of less than 3 months.
Chile
For Italian citizens, a passport is required, with residual validity of at least 6 months
An entry visa is not required for tourist stays of less than 3 months.
However, pay attention not to lose the copy of the immigration form filled out upon entry into the country, as it is required to exit from Chile. In the event of theft, it must be reported immediately.
Upon entering the country, you are required to fill out a form declaring that you will not be carrying products of plant or animal origin, as well as currency exceeding 10,000 USD.
When to Go
The best season to go to Patagonia is the austral summer, that is, from December to February: the costs are higher, but it is the best moment for trekking and to avoid the cold rigid temperatures.
The intermediate seasons are also good for both costs and weather conditions (October-November and March-April).
Avoid the austral winter (June-August) when temperatures are very rigid, some roads are closed and many treks cannot be done due to snow
Flexibility
When planning your itinerary, we recommend not being too tight with the days/things to see each day and if you have the possibility, add 1 or 2 buffer days so that you can have more than one window, especially to see the things that interest you most.
In fact, it may happen that you have to change your plans due to the weather which is unpredictable in Patagonia
Internal transports
A good compromise to balance times, but also slowly enjoy the silence and the views of this splendid border land is to opt for internal flights for the longer journeys (Buenos Aires/ Ushuaia and El Calafate/Buenos Aires) and use local buses for the shorter ones (Ushuaia/ Punta Arenas 11h (including ferry on the Strait of Magellan) - Punta Arenas/Puerto Natales 3h – Puerto Natales/ El Calafate 6h)
For internal flights we used the national airline Aerolinas Argentina which offers frequent flights at convenient prices (if booked well in advance) and for the 3 buses https://www.bussur.com/ : clean, punctual, frequent and very easy to book online (highly recommended – no adv)
It is useful to know that there are currently no direct flights that connect Ushuaia and Punta Arenas (and the few flights that exist have 1-2 stops and are expensive): so the only option is the 11h bus. An experience that we definitely recommend, because the buses are very comfortable and the hours at the end of the day pass quickly while watching the changing landscape outside the window. Furthermore, the bus crosses the famous Strait of Magellan by ferry: have we convinced you? For more information, have a look at our stories and posts on IG
Where to Sleep & Eat
The facilities are generally good throughout Patagonia and if you book in advance the costs are reasonable.
We have practically always opted for accommodation with a kitchen, so as to be more free for meals and not always have the obligation to dine out.
For dining out the costs are not very low (25-35 euros per person on average), especially in the more touristy areas: you should definitely try the famous Argentine azado (a mix of grilled meat, which we tasted in one of the street restaurants of El Caminito in Buenos Aires as well as at the Tablita Restaurant in El Calafate) and in Ushuaia the king crab (Restaurant Volver): none of these restaurants sponsored us, we are only indicating them because we ate well!
Safety & Cleanliness
We found Patagonia very safe, but you should be careful in Buenos Aires. We walked around the city on foot and alone and had no problems, but as it often happens in many big cities, watch your backpack and be especially careful in the evening and in the La Boca neighborhood
The levels of cleanliness are high, especially in Patagonia but also in Buenos Aires all things considered
Costs
A trip to Patagonia is certainly not cheap, but with a few tips it is possible to save a bit:
- Surely the highest cost of the trip is for the intercontinental flight, so book it well in advance (at least 6 -8 months before). The same goes for internal flights for which you can find low prices but only by booking them months in advance.
- Book accommodation with a kitchenette or shared kitchen to be able to prepare your own meals. In general, it is also advisable to book the facilities in advance (4-6 months in advance) to get the best rates
- To visit the Torres del Paine National Park, we recommend using Puerto Natales as a base (about 100km from the park), relying on excursions with local guides (e.g. www.comapa.com – no adv but they are good and thus we recommend it) to visit the main panoramic points of the park, trekking to the base of the Torres del Paine, transfers to/from Puerto Natales (closer to the park there are very few facilities and the costs are prohibitive)
- The costs of the excursions are on average high, so book at least the main ones in advance to be sure of finding a place and in any case they do not cost less on site, but perhaps even more
Other utilities
In Argentina there is an important problem of inflation and depreciation of the local currency, reason why payment by card is not always accepted (especially in restaurants, but also in hotels) or is accepted but with surcharges; as well as cash withdrawals at ATMs or banks have very high commissions and are highly restricted.
For this reason, we recommend that you bring plenty of cash (especially USD and/or Euros) and before paying, ask for the amount in the various options to understand the most convenient one each time (Euro/USD – Argentine Peso – card). To avoid scams/robberies, we suggest you to not change money into local currency on the street in Buenos Aires (even though many will approach you to offer it) and rely only on exchange offices (few) or banks or maximum change money in the (many) restaurants that do it. For example, an official exchange office is located on Av. Florida near Plaza de Mayo
In Argentina, you will hear about the so-called Blue Dollar, the exchange rate practiced by unofficial exchanges and much more advantageous than the official one, but since December 2023 the Argentine government has strongly depreciated the Argentine peso (with strong controversy from the population who have seen their few savings halved) in order to try to reduce this imbalance between the official and informal exchange rates.
In Chile there are no such problems and card payments are generally accepted
In Buenos Aires (and in the north of Argentina, so not in Patagonia) since 2023 there has been a strong Dengue problem: therefore, if you are not vaccinated, we recommend that you bring repellents (e.g. Jungle - very strong) and keep your arms and legs as covered as possible.
More generally, for Argentina and Chile, no mandatory vaccinations are required, but it is good practice to contact the vaccination center for travellers for any optional but recommended vaccinations (e.g. anti-tetanus, hepatitis A, etc.)
To discover more about our travel in Patagonia have a look to our posts and stories dedicated to Argentina and Chile on our Instagram page @2intour dated December 2023 – April 2024
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